For those of you that don’t know much about Mendoza, Argentina try to imagine putting Napa Valley in Denver with the Rocky Mountains surrounding the vineyards. This is the view that comes to mind when I think of Mendoza, except it is the Andes Mountains instead of the Rockies, its Malbec instead of Cabernet, and the price points are much more reasonable for good quality wine. But it wasn’t until 2002, when producers began exporting Argentine wines that the rest of us got to taste what Argentines had been drinking all along. Argentina now sends nearly 7 million cases of wine to the U.S. yearly, most of it just one varietal: Malbec. With its big, dark, rich flavors and affordability, Malbec has appealed to wine drinkers used to rich California reds without the high price tag! As a result, tourism to Argentina and specifically Mendoza has increased to an all-time high.
This article is all about my experiences in Mendoza and the surrounding wineries as part of the business research to develop my Culinary & Wine Tours. This two part (check next month) article discusses where to stay, eat and what vineyards to see: specifically Familia Zuccardi, Salentein, and O’Fournier.
Where to stay
Park Hyatt Mendoza: www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com
This hotel is a little bit of luxury and a lot of class. Beautifully located in the center of the city right across the Plaza de Independencia, this hotel stands out from the rest both in its looks and services. Prices range from $200 to $400/night depending upon the season and room but you can take advantage of the hotels 10% on-line discounts. Whether you’re looking to just sit poolside and sip on wine all afternoon, take advantage of the amazing spa, or enjoy a gourmet meal at Bistro M, chances are you will enjoy the activity. Just to give you an idea of the amazing specials you can take advantage of, a day spa package recently included all access to the fitness center, locker rooms (hot tub, plunge pool, sauna, steam room), outdoor pool, relaxation room with refreshments, 1 hour massage, a glass of Argentine Malbec and a platter of Argentine cheese and crackers for $75.00US. That alone is worth the visit!
Where to visit
Familia Zuccardi: www.familiazuccardi.com
Mr. Alberto Zuccardi grew up in Mendoza working as an engineer in the 1950s. In fact, it was Mr. Zuccardi who developed one of the first irrigation systems in Mendoza (a city that makes jokes about its lack of rainfall). With very limited amounts of accessible water, these irrigation systems made it possible to not only provide people with fresh water but the ability to achieve his destiny – making wine. It was not until the 1980s though that his son, Jose Alberto, turned the business into an internationally known winery. There are currently five estates in different parts of the region and the entire family is involved with the production.
Familia Zuccardi separates itself from other vineyards with its advanced technology, sustainability, variety of grapes grown and most importantly (at least for me) its unique wine activities that makes any tourists visit an unforgettable one. Run by Jose Alberto’s daughter, Julia, the experience all starts at the Casa Del Visitante (The Visitors House) where you are given a warm welcome. I was fortunate enough to meet with Maria Eugenia, Zuccardi’s Director of Tourism, and enjoy a private tour through the art gallery, tasting room, merchandise store and the restaurants.
The activities Familia Zuccardi offer include riding bikes or driving antique cars throughout the estate to then enjoy a picnic in the middle of the vineyard. Others include renting a hot air balloon for picturesque views of the region, picking grapes to make your own mixture of varietals and picking olives which are then pressed and bottled with your name on it to take home as a memento of the experience. Most wineries include the basic tank and barrel room tour. Familia Zuccardi, however, understands that for people to truly enjoy the experience making it memorable is the key. I think it is safe to say that they are definitely on the right track.
Where to eat
Restaurant 1884: www.1884restaurante.com.ar
Located 15 minutes from the center of the city is a restaurant created by one of Argentina’s greatest chefs, Francis Mallmann. The restaurant is built on the winery that started in the year 1884, hence the name. Some people come to Mendoza just to eat at this celebrity chef-philosopher-food lover’s restaurant. Just off a world tour from his recent book, Seven Fires (highly recommended), Mallmann has created an establishment that prides itself in fine Argentine meats and fresh local produce. Although you will find simple food prepared in a rustic, stripped-down style, the dishes are carefully presented showing off his French culinary training. For wine lovers, the restaurant does a superb job at matching the food with local wine selections, with Malbec understandably topping the list.
Any food and wine experience at a restaurant in a different part of the world, in my mind, should start at the bar. At 1884’s stylish bar we enjoyed a glass of Calvados on ice (probably one of my favorite cocktails), delicious Parmigiano-Reggiano breadsticks, and salted-spiced cured black olives. After enjoying my drink and chatting with the bartender, our table was ready and I was ready to eat! The décor of the place is magnificent mixing old world and modern. The wooden floors supposedly were done with the oak wood from the barrels that stored the wine. We were seated in the beautiful main dining room indoors but you can also eat outside al fresco. The outdoor courtyard is a must in summertime (as I am told) as you can watch chefs cook on the outdoor grill and horno de barro, an Argentine clay oven used to achieve 600-700 degree temperatures.
Upon sitting at our table, a basket with an array of different breads arrived with fresh butter that was like a honey cream. Wine was ordered, and then my first dish came. It was a modern take on “Humita”, a dish with heavy influence from the Native American (Incas) tradition of corn found in the north of Argentina, specifically Jujuy and Salta. Rather than wrapping it in a corn husk, Mallmann just cooks the filling into a savory sweet corn pudding and tops it off with fresh chive oil. Can you say “out of this world good?” I wanted more but knew my next dish was going to be a rather large amount of food. Many food writers have claimed that the restaurants top entrees are the lechón (young pork) and chivito (baby goat) but in the land of beef, one must go with the famous ojo de bife (a massive 2 inch Rib eye weighing about 16-20oz). The meat was perfectly cooked with a slight char on the outside, juicy and pinkish-red on the inside and dressed with just enough fresh Chimichurri. The meat was presented beautifully on top of a potato galette that was crunchy and delicious. My final dish was the famous chocolate para fanáticos (chocolate for fanatics). Imagine chocolate mousse, chocolate cake, chocolate truffles, chocolate gelato, and chocolate ganache! For those of you who just adore chocolate (like I do), this dish provides it in different forms, flavors, textures and temperatures in a stylish and modern way.
Francis Mallmann’s restaurant 1884 represents the respected culinary techniques of France combined with the food traditions and wines of Argentina in a unique way. This restaurant is a quintessential culinary experience that is a must for any food and wine connoisseur. Stay tuned for next month’s article (Mendoza part II) as I will discuss wineries Salentein and O’Fournier. If you would like more information regarding Mendoza, attending my Culinary & Wine Tours or my chef services, please feel free to visit my website at www.chefcrusco.com
