Written by Chef Crusco Catering in Austin, Texas
As most have noticed the Austin, Texas food scene (including private chefs, resturants and personal chefs) has changed quite a bit in the last few years. The diverse options, higher quality and prices have all increased as well. As a result though, one can start to see the differences in these establishments between substance and show. According to Wikipedia, haute cuisine means ‘grande cuisine’ and refers to the cooking of the grand restaurants and hotels of the Western world. To some this sounds attractive and a lot of the times it can be as long as the food matches the grandness of the show. The famous Michellin star rating system recently made it to Texas with many establishments holding their breath. Do they have what it takes to receive that life changing star? Does their grande cuisine match their grande ambiance? Can they ensure that the food quality matches the quality of the setting? Only time will tell.
Unfortunately, the phrase “haute cuisine” can have some negative connotations. Many associate it with snootiness, expensive, and pretentiousness. Therefore, those that either don’t want to spend the money or be surrounded by this pompous environment rarely attempt to eat this type of cuisine. This is true in particular when eating out at a restaurant. For example, does one really need to pay $40 for a hamburger at an establishment touting itself as high end cuisine? Are you paying all that money for the supreme quality of the food, or for the richness and extravagance of the service and the surroundings? To enjoy foie gras, sushi, beef en croute, caviar and souffle Grand Marnier, does one need to be surrounded by gold chandeliers, DJ’s, snobby customers, and worst of all the pompous “I know it all” server?
According to John Lichfield, who writes for the UK’s The Independent, “haute-cuisine, as defined by the Michelin star-system, is as much a question of the beauty, size and pretentiousness of the frame (i.e. the restaurant), as the quality of the painting on the canvas.” Maybe this is true for the Michelin star rating sysytem (especially from the past). But it does beg the question that if a (private or personal) chef cares about ingredients used, extracts the most out of food, shows attention to detail with each plate and conveys cultural & culinary knowledge, he/she too can create “grande cuisine” both at a simple restaurant and at a unique home environment. Dare we say that a personal or private chef can receive a Michellin star?
Recently, our Chef Crusco Catering team created a very informal, simple yet unique experience for clients. The key to making the dinner “grande cuisine” was having the right ingredients, transforming them into elaborate flavors, giving attention to detail when serving each course, and then sharing the rich cultural history of the food with the guests.
The night started with our version of an Italian Bruschetta. Fresh San Marzano tomatoes were roughly chopped up and cooked with good Italian EVOO, Cannellini beans, Mushroom stock, and Sauvignon Blanc. The sauce was reduced for 30 minutes so that it would be chunky and increase in its inherent flavors. Once the guests arrived, the Italian Pagnotta bread was quickly grilled and topped with the Tomato and Bean mixture. The Chef brought the food out and allowed some of the guests to grate Parmigiano-Reggiano on top. A final drop or two of the Italian EVOO and some Sea Salt perfectly rounded out the dish. While enjoying the first course, our Chef quickly explained to the guests that Italian ingredients are such high quality becaue of their DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) system which vigorously controls the quality and authenticity of its country’s products.
The second course was a Wild mushroom Frittata topped with fresh, local greens. The Frittata included sauteed onions, garlic, Cremini, Portabello and Porcini mushrooms and the left over mushroom stock. Once cooked down, the addition of an egg and milk mixture was added to cook and hold it together. Fresh Radicchio, Frisee, and Arugula were tossed with Italian EVOO and Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, Italy and plated on top of the Frittata wedge. So simple yet delicious and authentic.
The third course was based more on technique and attention to detail than anything else. Homemade Gnochi with Tomato sauce was elevated to a light and airy pasta with a rich history of its own. Our Chef rolled out the dough into long snake like strands and precisely cut them into small dumpling pieces. Then each piece (by hand) gets rolled onto a dowel that is lined with ridges. The ridges implant themsleves into the pasta so that it can then hold onto more sauce with each and every bite. Tweezer plating is not required here but we always look to elevate a dish where we can. So, the Chef plates it up with some fresh basil, drops of EVOO and more table side shavings of the undisputed king of cheeses ‘Parmigiamo-Reggiano.’
The last course was a jazzed up ‘affogato di gelato’ which is where you take gelato and top it off with good Italian espresso. One small ball of vanilla bean gelato was placed into each espresso cup, topped off with a small amount of espresso and then garnished with home made candied orange peels that were dipped in dark chocolate.
Based on our guests feedback (including 120 others), the dinner was a huge success! They loved the attention to detail, the knowledge conveyed, the interactive aspects with their guests, the service, the food and the overall experience. As far as any delusions of grandeur about our food being labeled “haute cuisine” by the Michelin star rating system, the answer as they say lies in the eye of the beholder.
