A 20th century Catalan author once said “a country’s cuisine is its landscape in a cooking pot.” As you may know Spaniards take their food very seriously and similarly to Italy and France, they have many different regions within the country that are different in the culinary sense. For example, to the Northwest lies the Basque country, known for its excellent chefs and nouvelle cuisine that shows French culinary influences. To the Northeast lies Catalan country, known for its sea and mountain fare where combinations of seafood and meat are traditional and exceptionally good. Furthermore, to the South lies Andalusia, which is famous for its cold soup known as Gazpacho. Farmers and artists at heart, Spaniards throughout the country rely on what the earth produces, start the cooking process from there and then add their modern and artistic flair to it. The resulting food can range from simple, honest food to avante-garde molecular gastronomy now known around the world.
On a past trip to Spain, I was lucky enough to experience several incredible restaurants and food experiences that I will share with you below. There also is a simple appetizer recipe you can make at home so you too can enjoy Spanish cooking.
Restaurante Botin – Calle de Cuchilleros, 17 – Madrid, Espana
Located in the heart of Madrid is the famous restaurant Botin. Notorious for being known as the “oldest restaurant in the world” it is steeped in rich history and tradition. The restaurant is so old and famous that it has been referenced in Hemingway’s “The sun also rises” where Hemingway makes the claim that Botin is one of the best restaurants in the world – both for its unique cuisine and its ability to show the soul of Spain and its people.
Only my second night in Madrid, I enjoyed an unforgettable starter of roasted sweet peppers with morcilla (blood sausage – Spanish style with paprika). Then came the merluza al horno (oven roasted hake fish) which was flaky, juicy, and almost sweet in flavor. The dinner finished with a sultry smooth natilla (custard cream) and cortados, which is like an espresso topped off with a small amount of steamed milk. In addition to the great food, the ambience is incredible as I requested to sit near the ancient wine cellar. We were allowed to enter the basement cellar (that’s me pictured above) and take pictures of wines that have been dormant for almost 300 years! Overall Botin was just incredible and a place I will never forget.
Restaurant Jose Maria – Cronista Lecea, 11 (near Plaza Mayor) – Segovia, Spain
Only 45 minutes from Madrid via Spain’s Ave bullet train, lies the beautiful little town of Segovia, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city is known for its famous Roman aqueduct built in the 1st century AD as well as its cochinillo or roasted suckling pig restaurants. A particularly famous restaurant is Jose Maria, which through the atmosphere, wine and food creates an authentic experience riddled with a sense of history. We started with cod croquette and crispy potato stick hors d’ oeuvres. Think fried balls of breaded, creamy fish puree contrasted with crispy shoe string fries – it was so simple yet incredible! We then enjoyed the recently harvested white asparagus with a house made lemon mayonnaise. The main dish – the roasted suckling pig – then arrived. Known as a delicacy around the world, the meat is unlike anything you have eaten and exceptionally tender for several reasons. The pigs are only allowed to grow for three weeks and not exceed 4-5 kilos in weight. Secondly, the mothers are fed a diet based solely on natural grains. Finally, the cooking technique comes into play. Only seasoned with good sea salt, the pig is laid onto wood logs in a roasting dish. Before roasting at 400 degrees, water is ladled into the bottom of the roasting pan. After the first hour, more water is added if evaporated and the pig is pinched all over with a fork and then brushed with good Spanish olive oil (this is what gives the skin its golden color). It is then cooked for another hour and then brought to the table for the grand show. To demonstrate the soft consistency of the meat, the waiter slices the cochinillo into portions with a small dinner plate. If you do not believe, see for your self – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZmiH5FCz98. The pork was served with another signature dish of braised judiones. These are like our butter beans but bigger and creamier. The beans are soaked over night and then braised in Spanish clay pots with onions, garlic, paprika, tomatoes, and good olive oil. The depth of flavor is incredible and it goes perfectly with the suckling pig. Jose Maria is a place you will never forget and if you’re lucky or persistent enough like me, the man himself (Jose Maria) will graciously come to your table to meet and talk to you about his country, his culture, and his food.
Boqueria Food Market – Las Ramblas, Barcelona, Spain
Located in Barcelona right off the famous Las Ramblas street lies the St. Josep Mercat, now known as the Boqueria Market. The market is housed in a beautiful 19th century structure of glass and iron. The food products, the architecture and the ambience make this place without a doubt heaven on earth for all those that love food. You will find all types of chocolates and sweets, traditional breads, fresh and candied fruits, vibrant produce, cultivated and wild mushrooms, fresh and cured meats and cheeses, and a variety of seafood that will make you dizzy! This market is not only for foreigners and the people of Barcelona to enjoy but it is also a very serious culinary center for Catalan chefs. Many if not all of the best restaurant chefs come to the Boqueria daily to get their produce and special catches of the day so they can create the unique and varied Catalan cuisine. What attracts foreigners, Spaniards, and restaurant chefs to the Boqueria is what makes it such a special gastronomic destination. The variety of items in all areas is just incredible! The seafood areas had fish and crustaceans that I had never even seen before. A type of rock fish known as brown sea scorpions, large lobster size shrimp known as cigalas, and long tubular razor clams are just a few examples of the diversity that makes this place so special. Furthermore, the market’s proximity to the ocean ensures that all the produce from the sea is as fresh as possible. You can walk from the Boqueria down Las Ramblas to the ocean in less than 5-10 minutes so you know all the seafood you are buying was swimming in the ocean that morning! Lastly, there are many stall owners that have been selling their products for more than 30 years. These vendors have built a very loyal customer base that in essence has turned into a family like community within the market. If you ever get a chance to visit Barcelona make it a priority to visit this market. I assure you it will simultaneously amaze and inspire you for years to come.
Appetizer Recipe: Pa amb tomaquet (Pan con Tomate)
This classic appetizer of bread and tomatoes is so simple yet infinite in its variety of preparation that it will soon become a favorite of yours.
Ingredients
- Good crusty country bread (examples include baguettes, boules, and batards)
- Very vine ripe tomatoes (when in season)
Preparation
- Cut ½ inch thick slices of bread and toast in the oven
- Cut the tomato in half and rub all over one side of the bread
Suggestions
- Season with very good sea salt and extra virgin olive oil
- Top with good Spanish cheese like Manchego, Idiazabal, or Tetilla
- Top with tuna, sardines or anchovies packed in olive oil
- Top with roasted Spanish piquillo peppers
- Top with Jamon Serrano (Spanish cured ham) or chorizo
As you can see, despite its simplicity with two ingredients, the variety of ways to make this appetizer is almost endless. As a result, you can add your creative touch with this dish and make it your own. For more information about Spain, Spanish food or my chef services please contact me directly or visit my website at www.chefcrusco.com
