What else can one say about Italy and their cooking? Growing food and cooking is just a part of their genetic make up. It seems every Italian cooks, grows produce, makes wine, or has some culinary related interest. As a result, it shows through not only in their food and wine, but also their passion and overall way of life. Arriving to Venice from Paris, the train stations gift shop had the most incredible thin crust pizza. That would be like our bus stations having the best fast food which we all know cannot be further from the truth. My father always told me you can eat better at gas stations in Italy than in most restaurants around the world. I always thought those statements were made out of pride in that his father was Italian. However, now after seeing and experiencing it I realize he was just speaking the truth. My first two stops in Italy could not have been more different in their culinary styles. Venice and Florence are both known for food, yet the former is one of refinement while the latter’s style is more rustic and dependent upon the quality of ingredients.
Venice has to be without a doubt one of the most beautiful and romantic places on earth. As you walk out of the train station immediately you see the city is essentially floating upon water. Transportation is now either by foot or the Italian vaporetto (water bus). Through the mysterious alleyways and endless mazes of backstreets and deserted squares, you’ll find that Venice is a perfect place to walk aimlessly for hours on end. Then, out of no where you will find a quaint pastry shop like the one I found. Mauro – El Forner de Canton is a well known pastry shop that had these incredibly delicious biscotti cookies and grissini (Italian breadsticks).
The sea surrounds Venice, so Venetian cuisine is extremely abundant in seafood dishes. A typically Venetian specialty, cichetti are small portions of food served in bacari (Venetian style wine bars kind of like a Tapas bar). When you go out for cichetti, you will eat standing up, usually in a crowded room and believe me – you will enjoy some of the best food and wine in the city. One such place is Pronto Pesce, a restaurant made famous in the US by Tony Bourdain and his show ‘No Reservations’. I tried the smoked salmon and zucchini cube which was like a salmon and zucchini frittata (an Italian omelet). I then tried these little mini croissants of smoked salmon, tomatoes and fontina cheese. I could not stop eating them so the attendant finally asked me if I just want to buy a dozen of them. I kindly accepted and walked out with a box of goodies for my afternoon snack. The cichetti at Pronto Pesce was simple yet elaborate Italian food that both looked and tasted amazing.
Nearby Pronto Pesce is the Rialto Fish market commonly known as the Pescheria (near the famous Rialto Bridge). The fish market’s current structure was built in 1917, but fish have been sold there for over 600 years. Here you will find fresh squid and its ink for pasta, branzini – European Sea bass, scallops, moeche (little soft shell crabs), and sardines and anchovies packed in tins with salt and olive oil. Surrounding the fish markets are outdoor farmers markets that sell fresh herbs, fruits like the mini melon called ‘meloni’ which are sweet and juicy. Vegetables like artichoke hearts are sold by the kilo so you can make dishes with the home made dry and fresh pastas sold. Also nearby are many cafes, butcher shops, restaurants and specialty markets like the Casa Del Parmigiano where I was tempted to buy an entire wheel of cheese! It is well worth wandering into the Rialto Fish market one morning with other tourists and locals alike and allowing your senses to experience this ancient tradition of farm to market all the while being surrounded by the sea.
Another magical city is Florence, the capital of the famous Toscana region in Italy. Obviously known for its history and importance in the Middle Ages for art and architecture, Florence is often considered the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance. Part of this renaissance included cuisine and Florentine or Tuscan cuisine grows out of a tradition of peasant eating rather than refined cooking. The vast majority of dishes are based on meat with the whole animal traditionally eaten. Antipasti include crostini toscani; sliced bread rounds topped with a chicken liver-based pâté, and sliced meats (mainly prosciutto and salami). The typical crusty Tuscan bread, obtained with natural levain, is frequently featured in Florentine courses. Foods where the bread is found include the famous ribollita soup (re -boiled vegetable and bean soup) or in the salad of bread and raw vegetables called panzanella that is served in the summer. The most notable main course though is the Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a large (40 oz.) T-bone steak cooked over hot charcoal and served rare. Florence is also known for their ice cream creation known as gelato. Gelato is made with some of the same ingredients as most ice-creams. But unlike ice cream, gelato has less butterfat content, less than 55% air, and fresh ingredients resulting in a denser product allowing the true flavor to come through in every bite. One thing to remember when ordering at a Gelateria in Florence is to pay first, then show your receipt to the attendant to get your gelato – thank them by saying “mille grazie!”
Another unforgettable food experience was in a small town off the highway just outside of Florence. Heading north of Florence, I was on my way to Maranello to see the famous Ferrari factory and museum. I decided to stop for a snack and found every shop closed except the gas station and a restaurant connected to the gas station. Noticing many truck drivers eating at this restaurant gave me an indication that this could be a good place. Upon reviewing the menu and seeing they served home made fresh pasta I had to stay and try. Even though pasta is not a Tuscan forte, what I experienced that day I still dream about. The home made tortelloni filled with fresh ricotta, lemon zest and herbs was simply dressed with good Tuscan olive oil (which they are known for) and parmesan shavings. There are no words to express the flavor and texture of this pasta. This plate would warrant a price of $35 here in the states yet here I was at a gas station restaurant eating like a king and paying a moderate price. If you are fortunate enough to go to Florence you obviously want to see historical attractions such as Il Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery, the Ponte Vecchio Bridge, and Michelangelo’s David. But also, try to experience the other enlightening aspects found in their cuisine as it will only enhance your overall experience and understanding of Italian culture. As stated by an international food journalist, Florence is “an experience of the palate as well as the intellect and where history and cuisine come together.”
I will continue the food articles about Italy, specifically Rome and Santa Agata de Goti near Mount Vesuvius in the Campania region in January’s issue. November & December food articles will include Thanksgiving and Holiday recipes respectively.
