Although overused, the statement “when in Rome, do as the Romans do,” still applies when it comes to food. For a chef, this means eat, eat again, and then eat some more. My best friend Brandon (pictured above – middle) joined me on a trip to Rome to enjoy all the food the city has to offer. You may ask then what is Roman food? First and foremost Roman food is from the region of Lazio which is just south of Tuscany and north of Campania. This note is very important as Italian food is known not so much by its city but more so by the region with which it is located. Typical Roman food is all about what is local and fresh reflecting the fact that its cuisine is based on old traditions and culinary customs. It is based on fresh vegetables with the artichoke being the most popular. Whether deep fried or simmered in olive oil with garlic and herbs, artichokes can be found in almost every trattoria throughout the city. I know what you’re thinking – fresh vegetables in the metropolis that is Rome? This is a city littered with ancient buildings that are at least three-hundred years old, with many dating back one- to two-thousand years. The idea of local farms does not come to mind when thinking of the eternal city. However, the produce comes from Rome’s rich countryside where its volcanic soil is perfectly suited for the cultivation of vegetables. Not only is the produce extremely fresh but also varied in its offerings where you will find asparagus, fava beans, peas, zucchini, mint and rosemary.
These vegetables are found in fresh appetizers like pinzimonio which is basically a simple crudité with an olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper dip. It’s hardly worth mentioning but when you see and taste the quality of the vegetables you understand why. Deep fried appetizers like ricotta filled zucchini blossoms are an unforgettable experience. But, the most popular is the Carciofi alla Giudia (Jewish influenced fried artichoke dish). These artichokes are to absolutely die for! When properly done they look like golden sunflowers and their leaves have a delicious nutty crunchiness.
Much like the Tuscan cuisine though, Rome’s culinary history grows out of a tradition of peasant eating known as ‘la cucina povera’ (‘the poor kitchen’ meaning the poor man’s cuisine). This is the reason why inexpensive cuts of meats like innards and other offal are so prevalent and simply cooked with herbs and hot chili pepper flakes. The vast majority of dishes are based on meat like veal and lamb with the whole animal traditionally eaten.
As a chef and student of food, it is amazing to experience their ability to make exquisite dishes from very simple ingredients. One dish reflects this ability is ‘Gnocchi alla Romana’. We all know about gnocchi’s made from potatoes but these rich and delicious clouds of air are made from semolina, milk, and eggs. As any Roman or good Italian cook will tell you, if you start with quality ingredients you can make any dish scrumptious.
To make Gnocchi alla Romana follow the instructions below:
Heat 1 quart of milk with a pinch of salt and a good knob of butter. When it just comes to the boil, add ½ lb of semolina in a slow stream into the simmering milk (just like you make polenta). Lower the heat and let the mixture cook until it has become pretty stiff pulling away from the sides of the pan. Once cooled, add 3 egg yolks, one at a time, and finish with some freshly grated nutmeg. Then, with a spatula spread it out thinly and as evenly as you can on a buttered baking sheet. Once cooled, cut out disks of the semolina, arrange in a buttered baking dish layering them in overlapping rows. Top with an abundant amount of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, good butter and then place under the broiler until golden brown and bubbly. Enjoy!
When traveling through the region of Lazio, it seems everything revolves around the city of Rome and understandably so. Rome represents the first historical period for which we now have recognizable cook books thus adding an incomparable depth of culinary knowledge to its already simple and elegant cuisine. If you ever get the chance to visit Rome, make it a point to not limit yourself to pasta and tomato sauces which can be found in other regions of Italy. Instead, dig deeper and seek out true Roman food so you too can as they say “do as the Romans do.” For more information about Rome, Italian food or my chef services please contact me directly or visit my website at www.chefcrusco.com
